Battle of Versailles

Prior to the opening of the Costume Institute’s exhibition “In America: An Anthology of Fashion” let’s take a look at one of the greatest moments in American fashion, known as the Battle of Versailles.

By Dora Maar

May 2, 2022

Eleanor Lambert

The Origins

In 1973, Eleanor Lambert, founder of the CFDA and New York Fashion Week, organized a fashion show with the chief curator of the Palace of Versailles in France, Gerald Van der Kamp, in an effort to raise funds for the venue. The event offered slots for five French designers and five American designers to show their collections on the venerated stage of the Palace of Versailles amongst high society and the most elite members of the industry.

"The event offered slots for 5 French designers and 5 American designers to show their collections on the venerated stage at the Palace of Versailles."

Pat Cleveland and Oscar de la Renta at Battle of Versailles fashion show, 1973

The French designers were historically considered top global designers, setting trends for the seasons, with American fashion playing second fiddle. The Battle of Versailles created an avenue for Americans to share a stage with the French designers, marking them as equals within the fashion system.

For the Americans, the designers included Anne Klein, Bill Blass, Halston, Oscar de la Renta, and Stephen Burrow. On the French side was Emanuel Ungaro, Marc Bohan for Christian Dior, Givenchy, Pierre Cardin and Yves Saint Laurent.

On November 28,1973 the French segment opened the show with a budget reportedly topping $150,000 and dragged on for over 2.5 hours, harkening back to the glory days of the past. Including performances from Josephine Baker and Zizi Jeanmarie, it was opulent, but overly formal.

Pat Cleveland and Oscar de la Renta at Battle of Versailles fashion show, 1973

Pat Cleveland and Oscar de la Renta at Battle of Versailles fashion show, 1973

In stark contrast, the Americans prefaced with a performance by Liza Minnelli, and a mere $50,000 budget. Their segment lasted only 30 minutes and captured the essence of the new era–– dance, disco, and independence as the central focus of their designs. Soul music from Barry White and Al Green provided vibrance to the colorful and eccentric exhibition.

Norton Simon's David Mahoney, with Halston, the guest of honor Liza Minnelli, and Marisa Berenson | Photo: Bettmann

WWD Milestones Drawing 1973 Published October 2012

"It was the birth of the American fashion industry as we know it today."

The next day, the headline of WWD proclaimed “Americans came, they sewed, they conquered.” This marked a turning point in American fashion– it was the first time the runway featured such a large number of black models like Pat Cleveland and Billie Blair. Sportswear sales skyrocketed, and no longer were American designers clinging to Paris for inspiration. It was the birth of the American fashion industry as we know it today.

WWD Milestones Drawing 1973 Published October 2012

As such a pivotal moment in American fashion, the Costume Institute’s exhibition “In America: An Anthology of Fashion” features an installment of the Battle of Versailles designed by Tom Ford, depicting Yves Saint Laurent dresses “attacking” Stephen Burrows’ dresses, contrasted against John Vanderlyn’s ovoid work, Panoramic View of the Palace and Gardens of Versailles.